Travelling to the scenic Greek island of Tinos, the last thing I expected to be doing was sitting down for a chat over dinner and drinks with the island’s friendly Mayor Panagiotis Krontiras.
But don’t underestimate the determination of Theodora Lekasi, the island’s unofficial Ambassador, whom I met earlier in London where she works in the international hospitality sector.
Learning I was thinking of going to Greece to celebrate my 70th birthday, she promptly persuaded me to choose her native island as my destination of choice. A place I must admit I had never heard of. Keep in mind, Greece is reputed to have well over 1,000 islands, over 200 of which are inhabited. That’s a poor defence for my ignorance anyway.
Not content with her persuasive powers, Theodora, known simply as Dora to many, who has recently opened a company with her brother, Leo called Vacation then proceeded to arrange the entire week-long trip for my companion and I, including accommodation, restaurants and transport. Even beaches and charming villages, of which there are more than 50, to visit.
And to cap it all off, she organised a convivial evening of dinner and drinks with Mayor Krontiras, at a taverna-style restaurant, Maistrali, that he opened with his brother, Miltos offering wonderful views over the Aegean Sea.
Maistrali is located in Tsambia, at the beginning of Kionia beach, one of the largest and most popular beaches of Tinos, close to the ancient Temple of Poseidon and Amphitrite.
With the help of Dora’s younger brother, Leo, who acted as a skilled interpreter, not only did I learn about the island’s history and culture, its traditional dove houses, its community festivals, its architecture, its marble school and museum in Pyrgos and its pristine beaches, but also the Mayor’s plans for tourism development over the next few years.
“Tinos’ development must be guided by the principles of sustainability, respecting its unique natural environment and rich cultural heritage while safeguarding a balanced coexistence between visitors and the local community,” said Mayor Krontiras. “Our vision is to showcase Tinos’ extraordinary landscapes, traditional villages, and extensive network of nature trails, offering visitors authentic opportunities for hiking, exploration, and meaningful engagement with the island’s distinctive character.”
Seated at a large wooden table on a spacious patio, the moon casting beams of golden light along the water before and we as a group deep in conversation, we sampled a wide selection of traditional island dishes.
Our starters included zucchini fritters, tasty round pads, as well as tirokafteri, meaning ‘spicy cheese,’ a traditional Greek dip created from a base of feta blended with hot peppers, olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice and garlic.
We also shared main dishes of tender octopus, the house special, cut small with the texture of soft stew, with caramelised onions lending a hint of sweetness to the mix, as well as grilled fresh fish of the day, sea bass, presented in its entirety on a large plate.
Just when I thought we’d finished our dinner, our efficient waiter appeared at our table with a silver platter of fresh fruits including grapes, peach and banana, as well as chocolate ice-cream. To say I was satiated would be a severe understatement.
Other dishes on a comprehensive menu include louza dried ham, traditional sausage, fourtalia, local omelette, artichoke pie, pizza of all kinds, homemade moussaka and feta bugiourdi, slowly baked feta in a clay pot with tomato, pepper and paprika. Fresh seafood is abundant such as grilled sardines, squid and shrimp saganaki. As for meat, there is a wide choice, from souvlaki with chicken and Maistrali burger and schnitzel to pork pancetta, veal steak and goat in lemon sauce. Desserts range from Tinos cheesecake to chocolate pie, baklava and yoghurt with fruits, honey and walnut.
Upon leaving, the thought crossed my mind to walk several kilometres to help the food go down but glancing at my phone I noticed it was already 11pm. Time instead for a strong mastika digestive on my patio, much more attractive than a long walk in the darkness.
Full credit to Mayor Krontiras and his brother Miltos, who continue their family’s long tradition of hospitality. For decades, their father, Vassilis, has operated ‘Drosia’ in Ktikados, which is one of the oldest and most popular taverns on the island.
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