Friendly Englishwoman Mimi Gerrard-Morgan, 33, has made an annual visit to the Spanish island of Formentera for the last thirty years, ever since her parents bought a holiday property there on the advice of their local butcher in Lichfield.
Now a bona fide resident, you’ll find her driving around the 18-kilometer island on an open jeep displaying the logo of tour agency, ‘Into The Island,’ showing visitors what her home-from-home has to offer (not necessarily including celebrity spotting).
Shaped like a lamb-chop, the island – a 30-minute ferry ride from Ibiza – gained publicity as a frequent stopover for what is termed ‘celebrities’ in today’s jargon. Basically, people such as billionaire Amazon owner Jeff Bezos accompanied by his sidekick, actor Leonardo DiCaprio, as well as the footballing-fashionistas, Victoria and David Beckham, who were spotted nibbling on seafood and imbibing on the island’s chilled rose wine at the overpriced restaurant Es Molí de Sal (the Salt Mill) near La Savina port that boasts views over Playa de Illetes.
Ogling celebrities as they chew on calamari is probably not enough to warrant a visit to the island, but the rugged coastline, scenic beaches, swimming nooks and panoramic views, some off-road, may indeed be.
And the best way to do so is probably with ‘Into The Island.’ Founded three years ago by Noemí Boullosa and Pablo Léonard, who have been living on Ibiza for over 15 years, the agency specializes in immersive experiences between Ibiza and Formentera, designed, as Noemi says, “for those seeking authenticity, adventure, and untouched landscapes, combining 4×4 routes, boat trips, and hiking experiences taking guests to hidden coves, secret caves, and breathtaking viewpoints rarely explored by conventional tourism.”
Leaving the port, our first stop with Mimi at the helm was a swathe of salt pans, sadly no longer in use, but environmentally protected nonetheless. If you’re lucky, which we were not, you’ll see some elegant pink flamingoes, their distinctive color originating from the carotenoid-rich pigments in the algae, shrimp, and crustaceans they eat.
Next up, 15-minutes from the port, was the charming village of Es Caló de Sant Agustí on the eastern side of the island with its little cove lined with boathouses where wooden rails enable local fishing boats to slide down into the water. There’s also a tiny soft sandy beach here and yachts floating offshore. Probably a good spot for snorkelling. Rafalet’s is the restaurant overlooking the sea on a rocky ledge.
Further along, off the main road, is el camona romano – the old Roman road – stretching high into the hills. We trekked for ten minutes along a stony pathway to a sheer cliffside for a panoramic view over the glimmering sea.
Aside from Es Molí de Sal, one other restaurant worth noting is the quiet, laidback Codice Luna at the furthest point of the island beside an impressive whitewashed lighthouse. Known fondly as the ‘full moon restaurant,’ its Italian owner (Italians rule the hospitality sector on Formentera just as Germans do on Ibiza) is proud of the spectacular lunar images from his terrace as the buttery orb rises slowly above the Balearic horizon.
A relaxing end to our four- hour tour (actually Mimi was kind and went beyond the allotted time) was a quick swim and sit-down at the music beach bar, Kiosko Amar, at Mijorn beach. Not the easiest of water to enter or exit but being crystal clear crystal the effort was worthwhile.
For night music best to head to Es Pujols, here you’ll find Club Tipic where Pink Floyd once performed for its inauguration. For a more relaxed sea-facing vibe try the Blue Bar (yes, its painted entirely in blue) located away from Es Pujols, with live concerts ranging from Latin rhythms to 90s classics.
For townies, there’s usually a buzz of activity in the island’s main center, Sant Francesc Xavier, with its old-world charm and restaurants and cafes galore.
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