Within a warren of marble-topped laneways in the quaint mountain village of Steni on the Greek island of Tinos stands Duar 1960, a popular taverna restaurant renowned for its tender meats cooked on an open grill.
Family owned and operated, it was founded by Eduardos Armakolas, whom villagers referred to as Duar for short. Now the revered grandfather of the family is proud to see his children and grandchildren continuing his culinary legacy. Once a butcher’s shop, the owners still retain a tall, walk-in retro freezer inside.
This charming restaurant is reached after a twenty-minute drive along a scenic country road from the island’s main harbour of Chora towards its highest mountain, Tsiknias, where legend says Aeolus, the god of wind, kept his gusts in bottles.
Don’t expect formality here, Duar’s reputation is based on warm friendly service from waiters Giannis, George and Markos, authentic roots and a reputation that has endured the passing of time. In other words, no-nonsense eating without any of the often unnecessary frills.
Simple wooden tables and wicker chairs line a sloping laneway, spread under several overhanging trees including a sturdy plane, mulberry and monkey tree. Potted plants such as dwarf umbrellas adorning one wall add to the rustic ambience.
Hearing of the village’s penchant for homemade raki, my companion and I kicked-off our evening with a small glass. Fruity and smooth, without being overpowering, it prepared our palettes for the food to come.
For a small local restaurant, Duar’s menu, under the direction of chef Marietta, an aunt in the family, is impressively varied. Starters range from artichoke and saganaki (fried cheese) to eggplant dip and fava (split pea puree).
My companion opted for tirokafteri, meaning ‘spicy cheese,’ a traditional Greek dip created from a base of feta blended with hot peppers, olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice and garlic. Only slightly spicy, the sweetness of the peppers combined well with the creaminess of the feta. It was also a complementary option to my choice, zucchini fritters, thin, crisp slices of the vegetable fried tempura-style. Soft, brioche-like bread soaked up the delicious leftover juices.
Most staples of the meat family appear on the mains menu including beef, mutton, lamb and louza (local cured pork). Carving of the meats – including ribs, steaks, leg, chops and neck – is done upon order by Vanggelis, who performs his art in front of a hundred-year old, wood-covered giant fridge. My companion chose lamb chops, several of them arriving well seasoned on a plate a few moments later. Feeling hungry, I initially decided upon what was termed ‘Stavilisia’ big beef steak, but learning it could be a whopping kilo, I quickly changed my mind and chose the smaller beef fillet. I wasn’t to be disappointed, the still hefty chunk of meat being tender and cooked medium rare as ordered.
Steni being known for its vineyards and wine production, we chose a dry ruby red to accompany our food, from the local Vaptistis Winery owned by Yannis Moraitis.
In addition to enjoying the tasty down-to-earth food, guests should also visit the village folk museum located less than a hundred meters from the restaurant. Opened 25 yrs ago, Katerina Zaloni kindly explained to me about many of the artefacts reflecting the history of Steni, including traditional clothes, tools, kitchen utensils, old documents, paintings, jewellery and a collection of porcelain, most of them more than one hundred years old and donated by the villagers themselves. There’s also a souvenir-cum-art store beside the restaurant.
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