by Sean Hillen

Not only does it have an impressive 17th century wall wrapping itself around a charming and walkable city centre, Derry is also a gateway to some of the finest landscapes in all of Ireland.

As I found out recently, a weekend is barely enough time to enjoy its many culinary and cultural offerings so if you travel to Northern Ireland’s second largest city, try spending a few extra days.

Here’s some highlights of my recent visit.

Walking Tour

Best to start with a guided city walk and an interesting one-hour one is offered by Martin McCrossan Walking Tours, named after the man who started the company many years ago. To my surprise and delight, a former school colleague of mine, Philip O’Neill, was my guide. 

Philip has a comprehensive knowledge of Derry’s checkered history, from ancient days through the 1689 Siege of Derry that led to the overthrow of King James II of England and on to more modern times including the so-called ‘Troubles’ in Northern Ireland and the tragic ‘Bloody Sunday’ event in 1972 when 13 people were shot dead within a few hours. Genial Philip peppers detailed historical information with amusing anecdotes and jokes which kept the tour extremely entertaining. 

Music 

Hats off to Music Capital, a local company under the direction of hardworking event manager Kieran Dunlop which has helped enliven even more the vibrant music scene of Derry. 

Kieran and his team attract a wide variety of performers to the city, with this year’s menu including a male choir from Wales, traditional Irish singers, tribute bands and pop artists. A social enterprise, it promotes diversity and inclusion, discovers new artists and collaborates with national and international festivals. Through its Lúmináre programme it hosts intimate evenings of music in iconic locations. 

My companion and I had the good fortune to enjoy a well-attended concert hosted by Music Capital in the city’s ornate 19th century neo-Gothic St. Augustine’s Church overlooking the city walls, featuring English performer, Kiki Dee (Pauline Matthews), the first female singer from the UK to sign with Motown’s Tamla Records, accompanied by talented guitarist, Carmelo Luggeri. Kiki’s hits include Amoureuse and Don’t Go Breaking My Heart.

Theatre

Derry is obviously proud of its theatrical tradition with the city hosting a number of different drama venues, among them being the Millennium Forum, The Playhouse and The Waterside, as well as community groups such as Cultúrlann Uí Chanáin.

My companion and I joined a capacity audience at the Millennium Forum for a lively production of the international musical ‘Sister Act,’ based on a 1992 American crime comedy film of the same name. A hit success on New York’s Broadway and London’s West End, we were fortunate to find two seats together as the show, which ran for a week, was booked out well an advance. Such was audience enthusiasm, a lengthy standing ovation greeted performers at the end.   

Museums

Derry’s development is captured in permanent innovative exhibits at the Tower Museum with one depicting the city’s history from prehistoric beginnings to the modern day and another focusing on a specific historical event, the Spanish Armada, a failed attempt by a flotilla of armed galleons to invade England in the 16th century. One of the doomed ships, La Trinidad Valencera, sank off the nearby coast and was discovered by local divers. Along with maps and coins are weapons, including a massive carriage cannon and a full suit of armour. 

A special ‘zone’ in the museum encourages young people to investigate the city’s development through miniature models, games and quizzes, as well as a science laboratory. Kids even get the chance to wear period costumes. The museum also offers some of the best aerial views over the city and the River Foyle flowing beside it from its fifth floor open terrace.

For something a little lighter, check out The Derry Girls Experience featuring original memorabilia from the Bafta-winning sitcom which follows five Derry teenagers in the mid-1990s during the final years of the ‘Troubles.’ Original sets from the series including the living room and kitchen of the Quinn family where many scenes take place, as well as clothes worn by leading characters, including funky Spice Girls costumes, are among props on show. Televisions throughout the exhibition show key scenes from the comedy as well as a video interview with the series award-winning creator Lisa McGee. The exhibition ends in July. Such has been the popularity of the series, a giant street wall mural has been painted depicting the five main characters. 

Aside from the Tower Museum, the striking, rose-colored Guildhall is also worth a visit. Highlights here are the building’s superb stained glass windows, its 3,000-pipe organ and a special collection of world renowned peace accolades including the Nobel Prize, awarded to the late local political leader, John Hume.

Food

From lively cafes to local breweries, street food to fine-dining restaurants, Derry offers many choices for eating out.  

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch at Browns in Town in the heart of the bustling downtown area. It features a modern decor with large open spaces, polished wood floor, low ceiling and a choice of booths and standard seating. We started with the local Earhart gin, named after Amelia Earhart, who landed in a field outside Derry instead of Paris in her famous solo trans-Atlantic flight.

Our three-course meal included scallops with wilted spinach and chorizo on a bed of mango, tender ribeye steaks and crème brûlée with apple cider and shortbread and salty caramel panna cotta with popcorn as desserts. Our servers, Daniel and Ana-Marie were both friendly and efficient.