by Sean Hillen

How does one begin to describe the furnishings of a luxury castle hotel when the hotel in question has enough paintings for every day of the year? 

That was the challenging task facing my photographer and I as we ambled around the magnificent rooms of the centuries-old Cabra Castle in north-eastern Ireland. Reflecting its illustrious history, the hotel features several hundred paintings and a vast array of vintage furniture and fixtures of all kinds, including full suits of gleaming armour standing imposingly on a carpeted staircase and an intricate mother-of-pearl coffee-table with intricate marquetry inlaid.

Reached at the end of a kilometre-long driveway, this 106-room 4-star hotel nestled in a rolling 88-acre estate, complete with its own forest, is mainly located in what is termed ‘the heartlands of Ireland,’ the county of Cavan. But it also stretches in small parts across two other neighbouring counties, Meath and Monaghan.

Cabra Castle has several different wings, the oldest being the Courtyard which once in a bygone age housed a blacksmith’s forge, henhouses, old-fashioned carriages and horse stables. There are also two cottages two minutes walk from the castle.

My companion and I stayed in a premier suite, designated number 24, in the main castle building, overlooking the entrance doorway and the forest. Reached up several flights of carpeted stairs, the suite comprised three separate rooms with a hallway between. 

Just inside the door was a cosy sitting-room complete with window reading nook with views over the terrace and garden, a writing desk and armchair beside which was a electric fireplace. A divan fronted a large wall TV and framed paintings decorated the walls. Making the atmosphere all the more inviting was the garden fountain just outside, the soft tinkle of spraying water a soothing sound.

Our bedroom at the end of the hallway was spacious, as was our king-size bed. Featuring a deep carpet and high ceiling, its classic furnishings included a tall wardrobe, a coffee table with twin armchairs, a writing desk beneath a wall TV and a free-standing oblong bathtub above which hung a gold-leaf mirror. Curled up cosily, book in hand, my companion really enjoyed the window reading nook overlooking the forest.

Our bathroom was brightly lit by overhead crystal chandeliers and a speckled marble sink. The shower, semi-enclosed behind glass, featured multiple water jets. Toiletries were by Voya and fluffy robe and slippers were provided.

Dinner at Cabra Castle is best taken in the soft ambient lighting of the first-floor Courtyard restaurant with table lamps, Persian arches and cream-colored oak-leaf themed wallpaper. Background movie-themed music kept us entertained throughout the evening.

Starters of tempura crab in a satay sauce and a fried Irish brie with a red berry sauce comprised a tasty opener. This was followed by a thick, smooth butternut squash soup with a swirl of parsnip olive oil and a floating boat of bread swept with cream cheese. 

Having not eaten since breakfast and it being damp outside, we opted for hefty meat dishes rather than seafood as mains, confit of duck in a mild sauce of red cabbage and berry and Angus fillet steak cooked medium-well with flat-cap mushroom and peppercorn sauce, both dishes accompanied by a bottle of Primitivo wine from Puglia. Displaying newfound discipline we forwent tantalising desserts of chocolate brownie with salted caramel ice-cream and meringue with passion fruit curd, choosing to finish our evening with relaxing cups of camomile tea.

While on a visit, it would be a shame not to indulge in Cabra’s traditional afternoon tea, the elegance of the occasion reflected in the delicate Arklow, Royal Albert and Colclough bone china and gleaming Churchill cutlery. How can one turn down a menu that includes sandwiches of salty smoked salmon with pistachio and pickled red onion, spring Roma tomatoes, bocconcini with basil and forest and button mushroom and chive cream on toasted sourdough, all served on a silver-tiered stand. Not to mention desserts of raspberry white chocolate with eclair, homemade madeleines with orange syrup and walnut espresso cake, and more. And there’s 13 different teas to choose from, including the castle’s own blend, and soothing classical music to listen to.

Guests can also relax in two main lounges. The Gold Room,  with lush carpeting, is aptly named after the color of its exquisitely-painted ceiling and a massive gold-leaf bordered wall mirror. other furnishings include a grand piano in one corner, topped with thank-you cards from people who had been married in the castle, an open marble fireplace with turquoise and white ceramic vases on its topmost shelf either side of an intricate brass clock with a beige divan and twin armchairs in front. 

Resembling more an art gallery than a period sitting-room, I counted 26 framed paintings along the walls, ranging from a solemn-looking Duke of Ormonde, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in the 1600s dressed in full regalia to a genteel lady standing dreamlike in a rose garden. An entire glass shelf is lined with sugar bowls and wine decanters of Cavan crystal gleaming under the light from brass wall lamps. A lacquered wood bookcase houses paperbacks and leather-bound volumes on subjects as varied as travel, biography, novels and poetry. Even the cast-iron wall heaters are engraved.

The Residents Room opposite the Gold Room – with a giant metallic chandelier hanging over a stairway between them – features cosy armchairs with floral motifs and an equal abundance of framed paintings, both portraits and landscapes. Ornaments on walnut tables include urn-shaped lamp stands, a chessboard, bronze statuettes, including an evocative one of a young child emerging from a half-open egg, as well as a reindeer, a wolfhound and figurines in medieval garb.

Through the room’s window one can see nearby an open-air, partially covered terrace with metal garden chairs, tables and a balcony offering clear views over the oak and sycamore forest and a manicured garden and walkway with an ornamental fountain in its center.

Cabra Castle is an extremely popular choice for events of all kinds, particularly weddings, with well over 200 in an average year. Not only is there ample choice of room categories for guests but The Granary, adjacent to the castle and once a helipad, then a tennis court before being renovated two years ago, is an enchanting venue. 

Cabra Castle also offers the bride or groom and their close family the opportunity to stay in the gate lodge at the entrance to the castle driveway.  In the castle ballroom where post-ceremony receptions take place, seating includes two impressive thrones centrally located for the happy couple to enjoy. In this room historical authenticity is achieved through architectural details including a tower and bare sections of the old stone wall. Chandeliers of Waterford crystal create added ambience.

As guests arrive outside for events, they are often greeted by the owners lovable Irish wolfhounds, Claddagh, Oscar and Guinness.

Staff Loyalty is a key to the success of Cabra Castle. Many employees have worked in the hotel more than 10 years, some over 20, including Eilish, a lovely local lady who helped us a lot during our stay. Reflecting this high caliber of loyalty is Johnny Tevlin. Starting life at Cabra at 17 as a day porter, he worked his way up the ladder. Now 35, from nearby Kingscourt and married with children, he’s the hotel’s genial general manager.

Aside from immersing oneself in the sheer sumptuous interiors of the castle, there’s also an abundance of activities nearby, including Cavan County Museum covering 7,000 years of history and the Marble Arch Caves, a UNESCO designated natural attraction, a trip to another world. Across the road from Cabra is Dun a Ri Forest Park, a 565-acre park famous for its wishing well and dramatic gorge.